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Amber brush-peeling
Treatment-with-amber-patentBrush-peeling is a procedure of cleaning or exfoliation of stratum corneum of the epidermis. Peeling refers to English word “to peel”, combining the concept of “to exfoliate”, “to peel”, “to clean”.
Amber brush-peeling is usually performed by using emulsion or scrub. Scrubs contain solid particles which, when rubbed into the skin, contribute to the mechanical exfoliation of dead cells of the stratum corneum. For these purposes the following might be used: fine sand, clay particles, pumice, siliceous algae, sponge, finely grinded particles of walnut shell, almond and olive stones.
In cosmetology special significance applies to stratum corneum of the epidermis. The process of removing the surface layers of the epidermis is the basis of many cosmetic procedures, such as removal of freckles, age spots, etc. Signs of skin aging: reduction in turgor and elasticity, the appearance of age spots, spider veins, wrinkles, dryness and excessive production of sebaceous glands – all these signs might be considered as functional disorders of the skin. Unlike any other parts of the body skin, the skin of face, neck and hands is the most likely to be subject to impact of adverse factors (cold, heat, wind, UV rays, dust and dirt, tixic products, microbes etc). Therefore, the approach to treatment and rejuvenation of the skin should be from a medical position, involving knowledge of its structure and function. The peeling-off horny cells correlate with cell fission of the basal layer.
Basal layer of the epidermis (bottommost) consists of a single row of cylindrical cells, which attach to the basement membrane. The junction of the epidermis and dermis occurs in the area of the basement membrane, which is an amorphous intercellular substance. Through the basement membrane metabolism processes are carried out between the epidermis, with no blood supply, and underlying dermis. The water content in the horny layer and Stratum Lucidum is about 15%, and in granular, prickle and basal layer - about 70%, that is the same as in other tissues of the body. External dead layers of the epidermis contain very little water. With age, cells of the basal layer lose their ability to divide, resulting in fewer and fewer new cells being formed in the epidermis thus reducing the thickness of the epidermis, causing wrinkles formation and skin aging in general. Basal layer and its functions is the main issue when talking about the care of the epidermis. Rejuvenation of the epidermis is related with the necessity for the basal layer to produce many new and large cells, which provide a thickening of the epidermis and its revival. Thus, all the effects of cosmetics aimed at accelerating the peeling of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, as the final result refer to stimulation the growth of the basal layer of cells and, consequently, to improvement the quality of the epidermis. This actually is the essence of therapeutic cosmetology.
Cells of the stratum corneum of the uppermost surface in contact with the external environment – are originating as basal within 10-30 days (depending on age characteristics) and become prickly, grainy, lucid, and finally the horny cells. From the surface of stratum corneum cells are being removed by peeling. As soon as the new cells move to this layer, the corresponding number of cells is being is removed from the surface. But a very important is also opposite effect - the more quickly peeling of horny cells is being performed, the fission of basal level cells is likely to be the more intensive. This is the basis for epidermis rejuvenation methods.
To truly restore the normal healthy skin, there is not enough to apply cream and to polish to a shine like shoes, but the need to create normal conditions of respiration, nutrition for the cells of the skin and underlying tissues as well as to discharge of toxic products, to provide sufficient energy supply and timely desquamation of horny epidermis. Look what unequal conditions apply to the facial skin and the skin of closed body parts. Besides that the skin of the body and extremities is being less influenced by the averse factors, so we have at least 1 time a week to rub it with a sponge during bathing, and in everyday life, we like polishing it with the clothing when moving, thus contributing to the rejection of epidermis and replacing the old skin with the new one. As a result and at the age of 50-60 years, the healthiest and the most tender skin remains on the interior face of the lower arm or femur (the mostly wearing surfaces).
Thus, the first conclusion that we need to do is to help the facial skin in the rejection of dead keratinous cells of the epidermis. This procedure contributes to the renewal and thickening of the basal cell layer of the epidermis. Therefore, chemical and mechanical peeling is justified, but not on all layers of the epidermis, but only on superficial peeling, giving the opportunity to renew the skin and the disclosure of the excretory duct of the sebaceous and sweat glands in order to ensure adequate respiration. We want to remind that in the epidermis there are no vessels, supplying the blood with the oxygen. Without oxygen supply, the reductive-oxidative processes at the extent of cells are being reduced, the cells fails to release all accumulated toxic products by causing premature aging and cell death, but not renewal. In this regard, the use of crushed amber does not cause interruption of oxygen supply to the epidermis and does not block excretory ducts of the sebaceous and sweat glands.
Unfortunately, powders currently available in the market are more decorative than curative cosmetics. Pulverized powder contains either only pigment, or more stearic acid, wax etc for better adhesion to the skin and a more uniform coating surface. The powders often contain the following substances: Kaolin (colloidal clay), talc, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, rice starch (which is a great nutrient medium for germs and mites), magnesium stearate, aluminum stearate and others. By the way, skin does not absorb anyone of these substances.
When mixing the above listed components, powders are being produced which are colored by various colored pigments, ranging from iron or other metals oxides or manufactured synthetically. Not every skin tolerates colored pigments. And presence of such substances as zinc oxide in a powder increases the dryness of the skin due to the damaging effect of this substance on the sebaceous glands. In practice, however, powders often are used by those who have oily skin.
So maybe a powder is not worth using? No, usage of powder is not only possible, but also necessary. But it is necessary that these powders were not only decorative, but apart of beauty providing skin care effect. And for this, they should include substances that stimulate skin functioning, ensuring their energy needs, contributing to the normalization of tissue respiration and metabolic processes. Finally they should make facial skin not only beautiful because of its color, but also healthy with normal turgor and elasticity. This task is fulfilled by using the crushed amber.
The advantage of amber scrub lies in the fact that apart from the purely mechanical action on the stratum corneum of the epidermis, energy impact of free electrons is being generated by friction of amber scrub on the skin, through biologically active points - for all the skin and underlying tissues.
Thus during the process of amber brush-peeling skin healing effect is being implemented.
Indications:
•    Removing of tiny epidermal micro cracks together with the skin stratum corneum;
•    Smoothing of skin roughness;
•    Removal of waste products of the sebaceous and sweat glands and remnants of make-up;
•    Removal from the skin accumulation of free radicals;
•    Stimulation of regenerative processes, facilitating rejection of the stratum corneum;
•    Creating conditions and preparing the skin for other procedures (amber facial massage, amber mask or compresses), as well as for the application of facial masks and creams.
Accumulated morphological, histological and clinical data demonstrate the undoubted justifiability of modern peeling. It provides adequate prevention of aging skin, improves the results of plastic surgery, and sometimes allows avoiding it. Peeling, according to beauticians, for one reason or another is necessary to everyone except, perhaps, an old people and babies. The task of the specialists is to correctly select the peeling.
Contraindications:
•    Acute inflammation processes (acne, pimples, herpes);
•    Extended capillary network and multiple telangiectasias.
It should be noted that whether during this procedure or during another amber procedures, the term „contraindications“ should be understood not as contraindications in relation application of the crushed amber itself, but in relation to a particular method of its application. As far as the amber is concerned, it has not got any contraindications in relation to its application in cosmetology.
Method of application:
Feeling for oily skin takes place 1 – 3 times a week, for normal skin – 1 time a week and for dry skin – 1 time a month.
After make-up removal and elimination of aquatic-sebaceous layer by using cosmetic milk and lotion (toner) vaporization and thermo application are being involved.  Steaming for oily porous skin lasts for 20 minutes, for normal skin – not less than 15 minutes and for dry skin – 5 – 7 minutes. At home, steaming can be carried out over boiling water in a saucepan or kettle, by covering the head with a towel.
Amber peeling might be performed manually or by using particular tools. After steaming, skin should be moistened with a help of napkin followed by the amber scrub application. In manual mode, circular motions should be performed by massaging facial lines with a help of cotton-gauze pad. The mode involving different tools refers to usage of brushes and vacuum method.
Depending on the skin type, procedure duration time may vary from 5 – 7 minutes when the ski is dry and up to 12 minutes - when the skin is oily. Scrub remains should be removed by using sponges, moistened in water or in tonic water.
Skin surface smoothens, gets even in-line with creation of favorable conditions for absorption of masks and creams.